Manufacture of open-end shoes



Jan. 14, 1947. J. s. KAMBORIAN ET AL MANUFACTURE OF OPEN-END SHOES Filed Feb. 22, 1945 s Sheets-Sheet 1' Jan. 14, 1947-' J. 5. KAMBORIAN ETAL MANUFACTURE OF OPEN-ENDSHOES Filed Feb. 22, 1943 I E-SheetS-Sheet 2 Jam 7- J. SKAMBORIAN ETAL 2,414,105

MANUFACTURE OF OPEN-END SHOES File d Feb. 22, 1943 V 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented Jan. 14, 1947 Jacob S..Kamborian, T. Eracy, Lynn, said. Kamborian West Newton, and'Wilfred- Mass; said Tracy assignor to Application September 22, 1943, Serial No. 503,337 Claims. (01. 36-1945) This invention pertains to the manufacture of footwear; particularly" to the manufactureof shoes of the open-toe and/or open-heel variety, and: especially to those made by the iorce-lasting method, and relates more pat-icularlyto a novel construction for such shoes, and to a method of making such shoes.

In making shoes or the open-toe pr open-heel variety it is necessary to provide a finish for the edge of the middle sole where such edge is exposed at the toe or heel opening, or both. Gustomarily this finish is provided by applying a binding tape or ribbon to the edge of the-sole member, the ribbon or tape overlapping both the upper and lower surfaces of the sole member and being. cemented or otherwise secured in place. For optimum appearance the edge finish shouldbe substantially identical in color, and 133K! ture with the exposed upper surface of the shoe bottom structure (usually a sock lining), butit is not always easy or expedient to provide a binding tape orribbon which matches the sock lining. Moreover, theapplication of this ribbon requires skill and is slow, timeconsuming, and expensive. At the, heel end of the shoe the sock lining; overlaps this arginal bindingand thus the pper surface of thesolemember is made uneven, Furthermore theedge of thesock lining is exposed if it extends, to, the heel of the shoe.

Thepresent invention has, for one of;itsaob.- jectsthe provision of an improved shoe; of the open-end; type in which the edge of; the middle sole, at the. open end of the shoe, is finished smoothly and so as to have identically the same texture and color as the exposed upper surface of. the. sock lining. Afurther object is tohprovide a novel method-of making shoes of the-open.- endvariety wherein the exposed end edge of the middle sole. maybe finished acceptably, expedis tiously and at a cost less than that involved in the, prior process, and which results in a shoe of improved construction and appearance, A further, object isto provide anjmproved sock lini g. as a step product in the practice of the improved method of the, present invention. other andfurther objects and advantages ofthe invention .will be pointed out in the following more detailed description, and by reference; to the. accompanying drawings, wherein Fig;. -1 is-a plan view of an improved sock lining made in accordance with the present-invention;

Fig. 2 is a bottom view, to smaller sca1e,of a shoaupper havingthe improved sock, lining as!- sembled' therewith;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, but showing a middlesole'assembledmth the upper and sock lining;v

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3 but showing a cushioning element or platform at the forepart of the shoe;

Fig. 5' is a side elevation of the assembled parts shown in Fig. 4;

Fig, 6 is a perspective view, ofFig. 3"to larger scale;

Fig. '7' is a section, substantially on the line l--'l'oi Fig. 10';

Fig. dis a fragmentary perspective'view-of the showing the shoe heel'endi of the shoe showing the margin of. the sock lining wrapped about. theedge of the midcllj'e sol'e;

Fig. 9 isa bottom view of the structure shown in Fig. 5;

Fig. 1.0 is a side elevation of the completed shoe;

Fig. 11 is a plan View of a sock liningoi modifled, construction;

Fig. 12, is a perspective View of a lasted shoe having a socklining like that of Fig. 11;

Fig. 13 is airagmentary longitudihalsection through theshoe of, Fig. 12, showing a heel arranged in. readiness for attachment; and

Fig. vl4 isa fragmentary diagrammatic longitudinal sectionthroughthe toe. end of. the completed. shoe.

Referring to. the drawings, the numeral 1 designates a sock liningwhich may be .of any of the usualmaterials, for instance textile fabric, customarily employedinthe manufacture of forcelasted shoes. Thisv sock lining, in accordance with the present invention,.is provided witha forward integral extension 2 at its too end, this extension here being shown as of substantially fan-shape. having the forwardly divergent edges 3 and 4 and the. curved front edge 5. As illustratedin Fig. 1, the. sock. lining lis also furnished with an integral. rear extension 6. extending. completely aroundthe heelend of the sock lining and terminating at I substantially in the line of .the heel breast.

As here illustrated, the shoe upper comprises a .vamp- 3 having a lining 8 the vamp being shaped to provide anopeningfl at the toe of the shoe. As here shown, the quarter portion ll) of the upper is integral with the'vamp 8, although it-may be aseparate part if desired, and this quarter is cut: away to leave an opening it at theheel end of the shoe, the quarter at this-point beingmerelya strap I2 designed to embrace the ankle.

As here illustrated, the outer member of the upper has a, lower marginal integral extension 8 desi'gnedto constitute a wrapper. While here shown asintegrahit is to be understood that the wrapper. may be. a separate element, for example a stripof textile fabric stitched to the outer member of the upper. As illustrated, this wrapper member 8? extendsirom the opening at the toe of the shoe to the point M which is substantially at the junction of the heel and shank The upper and sock lining are assembled in acportions of the shoe. cordance with the proceeding above described, In assembling the parts the lining member 8 the last is inserted, the middle sole applied, and of the upper is secured to the marginal portion the wrapper and toe extension are wiped-in and of the sock lining l by an inseam M which exsecured in place. The outer sole is also applied, tends from the Open-toe end of the shoe to the but in preparation for the application of the point l4. If desired the inseam stitches may pass heel H, the heel member of the sock lining through both the outer member of the upper is tucked in, as shown in Fig. 13, so as to expose and the lining 8 and through the Substance of the heel end of the middle sole. Fastening means, the sock lining. After the sock lin ng and upper 10 for example nails I9, is now applied for securing have thus been united by the inseam, a last L the heel H in place and the rear flap lof the (Fig. 12) is inserted so as to distend the upp sock lining is then withdrawn from beneath the and hold t e seek lining au A m dd s e shank portion and after being adhesively coated (Figs W c ed by ad s t he un is laid down over the heads of the fasteners l9 surface of the socking lining. As here shown this 15 so as to nceal the latt r and to form a heel middle sole 15 comprises a stiff heel and shank pa,d P a fleXible forepart portion d a stiff While certain desirable embodiments of the intOe portion w the exact construcvention have herein been illustrated and deon f t middle sole is 110 necessary P Of scribed it is to be understood that the invention the pr nt e t on- After t s m d e sole has is not necessarily limited to these precise details been secured in place, a c sh platform 15 of construction but is to be regarded as broadly (Figof thick resilient material, example inclusive of all equivalents falling within the felt, is secured to the under surface of the middle terms of t appended claims. sole by means of adhesive. As here illustrated We claim; (Fig. 4) this cushion or platform extends from 1, A r -lasted shoe of the open-end type the toe t0 the ball Of the i001], but it may be excomprising an upper having a rapper joined tended fulither towardthe if desired' The thereto, a sock lining united by an inseam to the toe extension 2 of the sock lining is now turned upper and a Sole member which is exposed at the downwardly 9 as B cover t conceal the edges open end of the shoe, the sock lining having an g fi zgg g i gg g" i mlddl; P gg also of integral portion which extends downwardly, over- Gus Ion mem laps and conceals the edge of the exposed portion gm 2 (Fig. 9) of the part 2 being wiped-m f 1 b t th d f th h beneath the cushion member I6 and secured to g g f zg 322 i g sg i l g the latter by means of adhesive (Fig. 9). The heel extension 6 is likewise turned downwardly math the Sole t t the lower margmpf the and its marginal portion 6 (Fig. 9) is wipe rapper also being disposed beneath said sole beneath the rear portion of the middle sole l5 member and secured to the latter by adhesive. These of h p -toe type comprising a integral extensions of the sock lining thus form sock hmng' a mlddle sole f Cushlonmg a finish for the exposed portions of the middle 40 element secured to the under side of its forepart sole and its cushion element at the toe and heel ends, respectively, of the shoe and since these exextend? downwardly overleppleg the W end of tensions are integral with the sock lining, the the mlddle the f ree margm of down operation of covering and concealing the exposed wardiy extending P of the Sock hnmg edges of the insole and cushion at the heel and 5 derlymg the cushlonmg elementtoe is greatly facilitated and it is possible for t d 51198 the openfend type relatively unskilled persons to obtain good results Wherem Sock lmmg 1S umted y an mseam to and to provide a finely finished appearance for shoe upper h upper havmg Wrapper these portions of the Shoe umted thereto, a middle sole secured to the sock The margin of the Wrapper portion 8b of the lining, the sock lining having an integral extenupper is wiped inwardly and secured by adhesive sion which laps and conceals the edge of the midto the exposed under surfaces of the cushion memdle 9 at the Open of the shoe the Wrapper ber l6 and shank portion of the middle sole l5. lappmg and conqealme the edge of the middle An outer sole I7 is now secured in place by means $019 at other portlons of the shoeof adhesive, the outer sole covering a d conceal- A forcelasted Shoe of the open'end type ing th t dq margins of t Happen The wherein a sock lining is united to the shoe upper, h I-; (Fig, 10 is now tt to the rear end a middle sole secured to the sock lining, and a portions of the outer and middle soles by fastencushioning element secured to the under e ing means extending down through the sole mem- 0f the middle 5016 the sock lining having an hers into the heel. A suitable heel pad (not teeral extension pp n and n l n the edges hown) may be applied so as to cover the up er of the middle sole and cushioning element at the surface of the heel end of the middle sole. Open end of the shoe- In accordance with a modified arrangement, 5. A force-lasted shoe of the open-end type as illustrated more particularly in Figs, 11, 12 wherein a sock lining is stitched to the shoe upand 13, the sock lining I comprises an integral :5 pe t e pp having a Wrapper united t ding th t e exten i 2 a middle sole secured to the under side of the sock antially at the lining of lining, the sock lining having an integral extenhls mam portion I of the sion lapping and concealing the edge of the midon I is attached by a seam dle sole at the open end of the shoe, the free marf this sock lining may be of gin of the extension underlying the middle sole, rom the main portion, for the margin of the wrapper underlying the middle r suitable to form a heel pad, sole at other parts of the shoe, and an outer sole nd attached by the seam l8, secured to the middle sole. olded back beneath the shank JACOB S. KAMBORIAN. n part of the socket lining. WILFRED T. TRACY. 

